As someone who used to live outside a small town in central Italy (and makes an annual pilgrimage back), I don’t think we can have enough reputable Italian restaurants in Seattle. But hitting the gelato-sweet spot that good Italian hits is tougher than an over-cooked Bistecca Fiorentina.

Too many places either focus on overwhelming by pure weight or go overboard with adaptations that sacrifice flavor for attempted flair. Recently, I stopped by Le Messe, Brian Clevenger’s latest (at 1823 Eastlake Ave E), and was delighted to find they understand that the best Italian eating and drinking is actually simple. Just perfectly utilizing quality ingredients in well-balanced combinations.