Marcolino’s Italia was not what I expected—and I mean that in the best way possible. The brand was a food truck before it became a brick and mortar on First Street, so I expected what you get with many food trucks that find permanent locations: a casual, no fuss eatery.

Marcolino’s, instead, offers a stark contrast to the no frills air of a mobile business, with a white tablecloth corner restaurant in the middle of downtown Reno proffering views of the Truckee River. The tables are set with fresh flowers, the staff are dressed in button-ups and ties, and the wine list is impeccably designed. It’s a far cry from the interior of the space’s predecessor—Handcrafted Gourmet Burger Bar.