IN ONE of my first Italian classes for my semester in Milan, I learned the difference between a ristorante, a trattoria, and an osteria. In English: restaurant, tavern, and pub. Practically, all three words fall under the “restaurant” umbrella in our lexicon, but in Italy, they signal three different dining experiences. As a broke college student, I sought out trattorias and osterias, establishments lower in cost and cozier in vibe, and skipped the ristorantes with a Duomo view and €17 Spritz. 

Since I moved to Charlotte three years ago, I’ve searched for a trattoria comparable to those in Italy—with brick archways, low lighting that resembles a wine cellar’s, and a wine list to match. Charlotte is not without excellent Italian restaurants: Aqua e Vino, Stagioni, Mama Ricotta’s, Vivace. I could have ended my great trattoria hunt there, but then I wouldn’t have found Civetta.