“I didn’t think you’d sound so New York!” Antoniella Paradiso exclaimed as we greeted one another on the phone. That was cool. Because until my recent visit to the University Boulevard outpost of Antonella’s Pizzeria (where the I in her name gets dropped), I didn’t think the pizza would be so New York, either.

I’d been to their first Winter Park location — petite and cute and ensconced in the upmarket Fairbanks shopping center where Ethos Vegan Kitchen anchors the corner — not long after it opened. I remember liking it just fine, but this time around? I was impressed. Maybe, I observe while taking a quick chomp from a reheated slice before completing this very sentence, practice has really made things closer to perfect.