"Ordering a quail!" shouts Rocco DiSpirito, the boyish but exacting executive chef and co-owner of Union Pacific restaurant. It's 7:48 on a Monday evening, and the first seating is polishing off its pineapple-and-salmon amuse-bouche.

A wall of frosted glass separates the Zen-like civility of the dining room, with its percolating waterfall and muted color scheme, from the raucous kitchen, where DiSpirito is expediting orders in spotless chef's whites and Birkenstocks.

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Source: http://nymag.com