Thousands and thousands (tens of thousands? millions?) of nonnas can’t be wrong. They’re the ones rolling and shaping taralli, in their cute little kitchens in Puglia (or Sicily or Napoli or ...). With quick, deft movements they work, talking about how easy they are to make. How good they taste. How they’re the perfect bite with a cold glass of white wine. How they’re so traditional.

How their grandmothers used to make them too. Just look for the nonnas on YouTube. You’ll see. OK, so, not only nonnas make taralli. (That’s Italian grandmothers. And, yes, I know the proper plural would be nonne, but who says it that way over here?) Of course not. But they’re the ones, usually, who pass the traditions to the rest of us. And they’re right.