A flowing red blouse, floral silk trousers and Hollywood diva sunglasses. This is how Mariuccia Ceraudo comes to greet me, bubbly and welcoming, at the foot of the long staircase overflowing with plants and flowers.

A hug is all it takes to become an honorary family member. Up we go, stopping every few steps to collect a bunch of oregano here, some bay leaves there. Before heading to the kitchen – her kingdom – she takes me to the bedroom to choose a dress, which she’ll wear under a white apron.