North of Sicily and south of Amalfi is Calabria. In the toe of the boot that is Italy, it is surrounded almost entirely by sparkling seas, and filled with dramatic cities teetering atop cliffs, ruined Byzantine cathedrals next to Norman castles, lush valleys, ancient forests and rugged mountains.

Greeks, Romans, Saracens and Bourbons have all laid claim to it. Not as touristed – nor as expensive – as its neighbours, it offers a taste of uncensored, romantic, and unapologetically hectic Italy.