Astros owner Jim Crane’s luxe Italian spot next to the ballpark could have been just another vanity restaurant. Instead, under chef Danny Trace, it’s home to some very personal Creole Italian food that draws on Trace’s Louisiana and Italian family roots.

He buys great regional ingredients from places like Covey Rise Farm and Waco’s Brazos Valley Cheese, source of the thick, creamy labneh that animates some of the best dishes here. (Oh, those handmade ravioli!) The pastas are thoughtful, and even such basics as veal and lamb chops are beautifully done. A serious Italian-skewed wine list adds to the fun, as does the chance to spot local and visiting sports stars.