Unregular Pizza was the perfect story for pandemic-stricken New York. Run by an Italian immigrant from Rome, Gabriele Lamonaca, this pizza concept’s twist was that you couldn’t buy a slice or a pie. Instead, customers had to offer to barter something with the chef, a process he detailed for La Cucina Italiana this spring.

Last month, Lamonaca opened his restaurant-version of Unregular Pizza in Manhattan’s Union Square, offering his widely praised square pies. Pizza is available by the slice (starting at $4.50) or pie (starting at $24); his “burrapizzas” topped with a ball of burrata, start at $11 for a slice and $55 for a pie.