One of the best things about New York City is that it stops at the northern edge of The Bronx and has never intruded, as in so many newer cities, into what was once countryside and now is more mundanely referred to as the suburbs. Westchester County to the north is itself home to large cities like New Rochelle, Mount Vernon and Yonkers, all with their own urban problems, but the farther you head up the Hudson and Harlem lines of Metro North, the more the frantic pace of the city recedes away from  towns like Mount Kisco, which was incorporated as a village in 1875.

It was once a cliché to say that restaurant options in ‘burbs like Mt. Kisco were usually second-rate versions of similar restaurants in Manhattan. But Locali, which is handily located within the Mt. Kisco train station, proves that the right owners with a commitment to a high level of quality and service both pays off and gives them bragging rights as one of the best Italian restaurants north of the city.