A San Francisco-based Italian wine bar that specializes in pinsa, a flatbread with pizza toppings made from a mix of rice, soy and wheat flours, debuted last week in the old DuMont space at 432 Union Avenue in Williamsburg. Shuttered since 2014 following the suicide of founder Colin Devlin in 2013, DuMont was an understated and then out-of-the-way gathering spot that helped define the Brooklyn scene of the early 2000s.

A quick peek inside Montesacro revealed a modern, updated interior. The ceilings are still tin, while the distinctive 19th century cement-tile floors (which Devlin replicated at sister restaurant Dressler) are now hardwood. Perhaps they’ve just been covered over.