Cape Cod overflows with ice cream. Throughout the sandy peninsula, there are shops galore. Yet, in South Yarmouth, in a cottage once a post office, Caffé Gelato Bertini churns gelato instead, batch by batch with fresh ingredients. The gelato has the luxurious texture and deep flavor of the authentic Italian specialty.

There are two-dozen selections, and classic creations like custardy zabaglione, its orange flavor enhanced with Marsala. Stracciatella is drizzled with dark chocolate; mascarpone is dense with a cheesecake-like taste. The choices include mainstream flavors, too, such as vanilla, chocolate, peach, rum raisin, and blueberry. The lemon is refreshing and makes your lips pucker. Some are seasonal, created with local fruit and ingredients imported from Italy (cups are $4 to $6; a cone, $4.50).