Orto, meaning “vegetable garden” in Italian, opened in February in a cozy, plant-filled Station North spot formerly home to Colette and Bottega. The menu, hung in the window, is notable for what it’s missing: Familiar items like eggplant parm, spaghetti and pizza — all but required eating in most of Baltimore’s Italian restaurants — are nowhere to be found.

Instead, chef Stefano Porcile, who helped open Colette and worked at Bottega when it was on Maryland Avenue, charts a riskier course. He aims to offer slightly lighter fare than is served at other restaurants. He doesn't want you grabbing for the Tums when you leave.