Carlo Mirarchi takes a brief pause from his lunch to start rifling through his phone. “You want to see something crazy?” asks the chef and co-founder of Roberta’s and Michelin two-starred Blanca in Brooklyn. When he turns the phone around there isn’t anything that wild—just a picture of the indelible Roberta’s sign.

The scraggly red font had come to epitomize the DIY ethos of the restaurant that opened up in Bushwick back when it was the boonies. It also became associated with a Brooklyn aesthetic that engulfed not just the city, but the globe this past decade. Upon closer inspection though, something seems off with the image. The “s” is missing in Roberta’s.