Truffle infused gorgonzola cream sauce. It’s an arresting line to see on a menu. In the wrong hands it could become a knock down drag out match with the two hard punching flavors tag-teaming to pummel everything else on the plate before turning on each other.

Yet there is a narrow and teetering space where all are content to live in convivial harmony. Over al dente cushions of gnocchi, truffle oil and cheese lend a sharp yet earthy and muggy savor that is at once luxurious and fundamental—a combination that speaks in a comforting tone.