Searching for Johnny Marzetti: 2 men, a myth and a legendary hot dish

Oct 27, 2018 345

BY: Monica Kass Rogers

Chef Avishar Barua places the flat, bronze disk he uses to extrude creste di galli (cock’s-comb-shaped) pasta, into my hand. The disk is warm from the heat of the kitchen where Barua makes his primo version of Johnny Marzetti, Columbus, Ohio’s signature dish.

Barua’s Marzetti is a many-splendored thing: pasta dough using spent grain from the Middle West Spirits distillery attached to his Service Bar restaurant, tomato sauce from a secret recipe handed down from the distillery owners’ Italian grandmother, a five-meat Bolognese, three cheeses, and chile-oil sauteed mushrooms, all baked and oozing together under a cap of house-made garlic bread. Johnny Marzetti never tasted so good.

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