New York’s Bottino Proves A Chef Need Not Be Italian To Cook As Well As One

Dec 29, 2019 179

BY: John Mariani

It is not an idle question to ask if a non-Italian chef can truly cook Italian food, because when it comes to other national cuisines—Indian, Chinese, Turkish, Russian, Thai —few who are not from those regions ever attempt to make them.

But the assumption that Italian food is easy to learn and master is a slippery slope indeed, with far too many chefs who have never stepped foot in Liguria or Emilia-Romagna wondering what the big fuss is in making a good pesto or Bolognese ragù. Worse, adding their own un-tested ideas to a traditional or classic dish can show a total misunderstanding about indigenous food.

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