The Boston Globe’s Devra First took the opportunity this week to eat at Papa Gino’s for the first time after news came out that the long-running Massachusetts pizza chain abruptly closed numerous locations and was filing for bankruptcy. “I expect it to be unfamiliar, but when I walk in, it is utterly familiar,” she writes, opting for carry-out, taking home “an armload of food,” including an appetizer “filled with fried tidbits.” While cracking a beer with her meal, First writes, “It’s like I’m at a frat party-of-one.”

First tries a “vile” steak and cheese sandwich before tackling a spaghetti and meatball dish, about which she writes: “If you served this to me on an airplane, I would definitely eat it.” For the main event, pizza, she has cheese and Super Veggie options that taste “like generic pizza that has somehow managed to escape being inflected by any culture — Italian, Greek — beyond the American culture of food delivered in a car to be eaten in front of a TV.”