La Strega scares up superb Italian fare in Summerlin

Jun 01, 2019 353

La Strega—Gina Marinelli’s new Italian restaurant in the former Due Forni space in south Summerlin—reflects an interesting convergence of trends. The first, ongoing since the Great Recession, is the migration of Strip talent away from the tourist corridor; in this instance, a former Cosmopolitan chef has resurfaced in the friendly confines of a suburban strip mall. The other is more recent: an Italian renaissance that began with James Trees’ Esther’s Kitchen Downtown and looks to continue with Nicole Brisson’s upcoming Locale in Mountain’s Edge.

La Strega brings a strong pesto game to the scene, beginning with the Italian ($13), a colorful mix of greens interspersed with dense mozzarella and salami cubes and tossed in a sharp pesto vinaigrette hinting of heat. It continues with the pesto and truffle pizza ($15), a funky, umami-laden pie with a light crust topped with mounds of arugula and ample nutty pecorino; and the bucatini Genovese ($16), cylindrical pasta with dandelion greens pesto, showcasing Marinelli’s ability to make eating weeds enjoyable.

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