Church bells toll at the corner of Selden and Cass on an unseasonably warm October evening in Detroit while the square aquarium of a restaurant across the alley buzzes with tony Italian energy. It’s 9 o’clock — prime dinner time in Rome, and apparently in Detroit, too, even on an otherwise unremarkable Tuesday evening.

Matthew Stafford and his backup quarterback are both inside, dining among the mostly well-heeled suburban crowd packing the Roman-style restaurant SheWolf Pastificio & Bar, which debuted in the final days of June. The restaurant juts out like a pregnant belly of the Selden, a modernist box of a luxury condo building at the former site of the decrepit Marie Apartments — a vestige of the old Cass Corridor that was demolished in 2016 to make way for the new development.