Regional Italian cuisine is seeing its day in Denver restaurants, with more choices represented from the northern Italian Alps to the southern tip of the boot than ever before. Chefs are showing us new pasta shapes, house-cured meats, intriguing seafood dishes and seasonal ingredients on menus in new eateries as well as established veterans. We'll address old-school Italian joints — with their red sauces, garlic bread and chicken parm sandwiches — in another list; here are the best modern Italian restaurants in metro Denver, in alphabetical order:

Barolo Grill and Chow Morso Osteria
3030 East Sixth Avenue, 303-393-1040
1500 Wynkoop Street, 720-639-4089
At just over 25 years old, Barolo Grill presents upscale northern Italian fare in Cherry Creek with charm and sophistication — and a generous amount of vintage wine. Ryan Fletter took over as owner four years ago, and quickly installed executive chef Darrel Truett in the kitchen, where cutting-edge presentations and techniques have kept the restaurant relevant and rewarding to guests.