A decade ago, I would never have said much about wines from Abruzzo or Molise, except for those from a handful of producers. And even in those few cases, save for Valentini (first without equals), I wouldn’t have done so in the generally glowing terms I use today. For Abruzzo’s and Molise’s white wines were generally neutral and oxidized quickly, while their fruit-challenged reds were often too tannic and tough when they weren’t flawed. And the more expensive and hyped reds were overoaked and overripe.

How things change! What used to be a region most noteworthy for inexpensive Sunday garden party and barbecue quaffers is now the smart buyer’s address for wines that are not just inexpensive and good but at times downright exciting. Molise is also improving its vinous offerings, albeit at a much slower pace and in slightly less convincing fashion. But there are encouraging signs here too.