Amaro, Italy’s signature bitter liqueur, is prized for all the barks and herbs that famously aid digestion after a big meal. But the spirit offers much more than its bitter reputation. “Each amaro is made with so many different ingredients—spices, roots, peels, barks, flowers—they have a lot of complexity on their own,” says Joe Campanale, owner and beverage director of Fausto in Brooklyn, New York. “They’re almost like their own cocktail.”

With recipes often honed over decades or centuries, it’s no wonder that amaro producers keep their formulations on tight lockdown. Most bottlings promote at least a couple of key flavorings that range from spices to flowers or fruits, while others can be detected through thoughtful tasting.