If you’ve ever been to a high-end fashion boutique in, say, Milan, you know the elegant, spare, intimidating atmosphere of the Italian modern style—crisp as a Brioni suit, not a thing out of place. But there’s a quirky variation, found from Naples to Rome and beyond: eccentric modern. It eschews restraint in favor of swanky, oddball, personal flash, hinting at the swinging Italian movies of the ’60s and ’70s. Look at the grill of a 1970 Alfa Romeo Montreal coupe and you’ll get the picture.

There’s more than a touch of eccentric modern at Il Posto, which moved in January from much smaller digs in Uptown to a new, glitzy home at the corner of Larimer and 26th streets. Il Posto 2.0 is the pride of Milanese-born chef-owner Andrea Frizzi, and you’ll often find him working the floor in the friendly, restless manner of the old-timey Italian chef-owners I used to encounter in Brooklyn’s Bensonhurst neighborhood.