Brooklyn’s most meteoric restaurant success in the last decade was Roberta’s. Starting out as a modest pizzeria with a wood-burning oven in an obscure corner of Bushwick, it swelled into an empire. Who can fault other rustic Naples-style pizzerias for trying to duplicate that success? Since Roberta’s founding in 2008, copycats have appeared in gentrifying Brooklyn and Queens neighborhoods: Saraghina in Bed-Stuy (2009), Barboncino in Crown Heights (2011), Houdini Kitchen Laboratory in Ridgewood (2013), and Union Pizza Works in Bushwick (2014). Now a new one has sprung up, spinning tasty wood-fired pies.

Santa Panza materialized at the end of 2016 on a remote stretch of Broadway on the Bushwick/Bed-Stuy border, where subway tracks clatter noisily overhead, blotting out the sky. Not long ago the neighborhood mainly hosted 99 cent stores and second-hand appliance refurbishers, trailing ranges and refrigerators along the sidewalk. Now there’s a new hotel across the street, hipster bars in the immediate vicinity, and a fast-casual café nearby specializing in bao sandwiches. The three owners — Pietro Hebel, Giovanni Gelfini, and Clement Chabernaud — cut their eyeteeth at Saraghina and Union Pizza Works.