For all the Italian restaurants in town, it’s remarkable how few are dedicated to distinct regional cuisines. Now, with Maestoso (1040 University Ave.) in Hillcrest, we have one dedicated to “anti-cultural” (read: contemporary) Roman food with much of it served from roving dim sum-style carts.

While cooking at various New York restaurants Chef Marco Maestoso and his girlfriend Dalila started throwing high-end Italian pop-up dinners, even catching the New York Times’ attention, before returning to their native Rome to open a successful spot there. But America still called, so soon after they closed Casa Maestoso in Rome, they opened Maestoso with friends in Hillcrest.