The agnolotti ($20) on Victory Italian's menu brands itself "Bacon Fest winner" and nests inside a printed box, showing that the restaurant considers it its best foot forward. Close your eyes and imagine the taste of ricotta-filled pasta, Parmesan cheese, bacon and sage-butter sauce. That's exactly what it tastes like, and exactly what this restaurant is.

Victory Italian is competent, conservative and unambitious. Just like takeout pizza—uncoincidentally, because it, along with a handful of other newly opened full-service Victorys, injects new energy into the brand founded at Armand's Victory Tap in La Grange, now most familiar for the takeout/delivery thin-crust pizza chain Armand's. The move toward sit-down dining comes with the help of Joe Farina, former head chef of the Rosebud chain.