When I learned of a new Italian restaurant in Murray called Celeste Ristorante—opened about two months ago—I wondered: Could it be? The name Celeste rang a loud bell and triggered some cherished food memories. And indeed, much to my elation, Celeste Ristorante is named for a chef I've been following on and off for more than two decades. His name is Paulo Celeste.

I first became aware of him back in 1994, when I enjoyed a plate of his ethereal gnocchi at a restaurant in Heber called Il Giardino. Back then, you didn't find housemade gnocchi on local restaurant menus, and you surely wouldn't find versions as simple and spectacular as Chef Celeste's. I remember it being served in nothing more than a basic pomodoro, which seemed heaven sent, as did everything else I tasted on the Il Giardino menu.